
Here are clear, no-BS answers to your DMA questions (I'm the owner of dmacheese.com)
Q: What's the difference between the T75 and T100 DMA cards?
A: T100 has slightly faster speeds and more features. But detection risk depends on the firmware, not the model. A T75 running solid firmware is just as safe as a T100.
Q: Is firmware tied to a specific game, or is it universal?
A: Firmware is anti-cheat-specific, not game-specific. It determines whether your DMA card stays hidden from things like EAC, BE, or Vanguard. The actual cheats are separate—those are game-specific.
Q: I heard ASUS motherboards don’t work with DMA. True?
A: Yes. Newer ASUS boards (especially B550 and some X570) can block or flag DMA cards. For best compatibility, use MSI, ASRock, or Gigabyte.
Q: Are there other hardware limitations (like AMD CPUs or certain GPUs)?
A: Not really. The main thing is motherboard compatibility. CPU and GPU brands (Intel, AMD, NVIDIA) generally don’t matter for DMA.
Q: How powerful does the second PC need to be?
A: Minimum specs:
- 8GB RAM
- SSD
- USB 3.0 ports
Even cheap Windows mini-PCs can work if they meet those.
Q: Why not just use a Raspberry Pi for the second PC?
A: Raspberry Pi lacks the CPU power and driver support for stable DMA use. A basic Windows mini-PC is much more reliable.
Q: Do I need different hardware for every game?
A: No. One DMA setup works across many games—as long as you have the correct firmware and cheat software for each anti-cheat system.
Q: How do I know what firmware is good?
A: Look for firmware that is:
- Undetected
- Regularly updated
- Not mass-resold