Quick & Easy DMA Buying Guide

09/04/2026 05:22 xEmR1337#406
Hey guys,
i heard that a lot of people got hardware banned in CoD.
Are they used external cheats or cheated in the Beta?

Can anyone say something? - im a little bit worried now.
09/04/2026 22:16 DemonTimee#407
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0x41^4 View Post
The developer of MAKCU allegedly made changes to the firmware to help prevent detections. However, I’m still seeing people across various COD communities reporting enforcement actions while using it, including limited matchmaking, bans, and similar issues.
So COD is now detecting Makcu?? That's odd if their AC can't even detect basic ekknod lol.

I just played the Beta with a Makcu fine, but is it time to upgrade to a Ferrum?
09/05/2026 01:54 0x41^4#408
Quote:
Originally Posted by xEmR1337 View Post
Hey guys,
i heard that a lot of people got hardware banned in CoD.
Are they used external cheats or cheated in the Beta?

Can anyone say something? - im a little bit worried now.
DMA is fine. Bans have occurred on both externals and internals.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DemonTimee View Post
So COD is now detecting Makcu?? That's odd if their AC can't even detect basic ekknod lol.

I just played the Beta with a Makcu fine, but is it time to upgrade to a Ferrum?
They allegedly fixed the issue with MAKCU.
09/05/2026 23:35 Dr_AMG#409
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0x41^4 View Post
Where to Buy Your DMA Hardware
Due to the volume of messages I receive regarding hardware and firmware recommendations, I made this guide so everything is in one place. I'm tired of retyping the same info each time - use this as your go-to resource when buying your first setup. I’m not covering setup here. There are plenty of guides, videos, and even communities you can pay for help if you’re so technologically illiterate that you can’t follow a video.

Important - I’m not going to directly link any markets to avoid moderators fucking with my thread. Just Google the suggested markets and you’ll find them.

Important - When purchasing from the listed markets, treat it like Amazon: choose sellers with good ratings and high sales volume. Example - [Only registered and activated users can see links. Click Here To Register...]

1. DMA Card
  • AliExpress
  • Sugargoo
  • Taobao
You’ll notice numbers like 35T, 75T, and 100T. In simple terms, think map size: 35T for a small map, 75T for a large map, and 100T if you’re planning ahead.

Contrary to what every drop-shipper (reseller) claims - that these cards are “knock-offs” or “illegitimate” - they’re not. Drop-shippers buy their cards from sellers in mainland China, then mark them up before selling them to you. By purchasing directly from the markets above, you’re essentially buying from the same source while cutting out the middleman. Don’t be fooled by the branded faceplates, it’s the exact same card underneath.

The only real benefit of buying from a drop-shipper is that they often perform quality assurance on each batch, which slightly lowers the odds of receiving a defective card. That said, in years of testing and helping others set up their cards, I’ve yet to meet anyone who received a defective unit directly from those markets.

2. Fuser
  • AliExpress
  • Sugargoo
  • Taobao
The fuser you need depends on your screen resolution. For example, if you play on an ultrawide @ 3440x1440 @ 144Hz (or higher), you’ll need a D60 or DC500. Keep in mind the DC500 requires a strong secondary PC with a 3000-series GPU or better. Otherwise, you'll likely experience ESP issues.

If you use a standard resolution, find a fuser on one of the markets above that supports your input (DP or HDMI).

3. Aim Controller
  • AliExpress
  • Sugargoo
  • Taobao
  • Xferrum
  • XIM
Avoid: Kmbox.
Recommended: Makcu (as of July-August 2026, many anti-cheat systems are detecting MAKCU), Teensy, or Ferrum (recommended). If you use a controller, get a XIM.

A Makcu is very easy to set up - Google “Makcu Discord” and you’ll find guides and the required firmware. The community is helpful and setup should be smooth.

4. Second PC
  • AliExpress
  • Sugargoo
  • Best Buy
  • Amazon
  • Taobao
  • eBay
This really doesn’t matter. You can buy from anywhere. If you’re not using an ultrawide monitor, most mini PCs or laptops will work just fine. I usually suggest checking eBay for a cheap used laptop with a 3000-series GPU.

5. Firmware
  • Build your own
  • Ekknod (free; not for EAC other than Arc Raiders)
  • BDE (cheap; not for EAC other than Arc Raiders)
  • Ithaclan (cheap; not for EAC other than Arc Raiders)
  • Rie (cheap; not for EAC other than Arc Raiders)
I generally don’t recommend buying firmware. 99% of firmware sellers are either scammers, or sell pooled and-or partially open-source builds that will need replacing in months.

If you want to build your own (highly recommended): [Only registered and activated users can see links. Click Here To Register...] - great starting point. There are also many YouTube guides if you're a visual learner.

⚠️ IMPORTANT: READ THE SPOILER ⚠️




Good evening.

I’m having an issue that I haven’t been able to solve. I thought I’d ask you to see if there’s a solution. If technical support to solve the issue is a paid service, I don’t mind.

My components:

Main PC:

* 100T card
* Main monitor: LG UltraGear, 240Hz, 2K ( 27gx704a-b )

Second device:

* Lenovo Legion 5 laptop ( 15ach6h)
* 16GB RAM
* AMD cpu 5800H
* RTX 3070

fuser: Dichen DC505

All three cables are brand new HDMI2.1

The problem is that whenever I set the main monitor to 240Hz, the displays disconnect and reconnect repeatedly, as if they are flashing (turning off and on).

The laptop is fixed at 144Hz, and there is no option for 240Hz.

However, when I set all the displays to 144Hz, everything works perfectly.

I’m not sure where the problem is. 😭😭

EDID flash done, switching modes between A, B, C
And same problem.
09/06/2026 02:56 0x41^4#410
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_AMG View Post
Good evening.

I’m having an issue that I haven’t been able to solve. I thought I’d ask you to see if there’s a solution. If technical support to solve the issue is a paid service, I don’t mind.

My components:

Main PC:

* 100T card
* Main monitor: LG UltraGear, 240Hz, 2K ( 27gx704a-b )

Second device:

* Lenovo Legion 5 laptop ( 15ach6h)
* 16GB RAM
* AMD cpu 5800H
* RTX 3070

fuser: Dichen DC505

All three cables are brand new HDMI2.1

The problem is that whenever I set the main monitor to 240Hz, the displays disconnect and reconnect repeatedly, as if they are flashing (turning off and on).

The laptop is fixed at 144Hz, and there is no option for 240Hz.

However, when I set all the displays to 144Hz, everything works perfectly.

I’m not sure where the problem is. 😭😭

EDID flash done, switching modes between A, B, C
And same problem.
I'm not sure, as I haven't used the DC505 myself. Several of my friends have it, and the general consensus is that it's a piece of shit, so they all went back to using their D60s and DC500s. I'll ask them and see if they know of any solutions.

It might be quicker to ask in the Dichen reseller Discord.
09/10/2026 12:37 Jay1212#411
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0x41^4 View Post
I'm not sure, as I haven't used the DC505 myself. Several of my friends have it, and the general consensus is that it's a piece of shit, so they all went back to using their D60s and DC500s. I'll ask them and see if they know of any solutions.

It might be quicker to ask in the Dichen reseller Discord.
Im looking at buying the DC505 as I play on an 65 inch 4k oled tv, 120hz. But do you recommend getting the DC500 instead then?

Also apparently I will need a pc with dedicated GPU to run it, 3600 or above.

But in the mean time do you know if a normal fuser would work for a large tv? Such as one that outputs 4k at 60hz.

I’m thinking if I drop the hz to 60hz, as the fuser says it supports 4k at 60hz. Then this would work, but i’ve heard with the tv being so large it can cause problems?

And also I’m using a n150 mini to power my DMA at moment. Do you know if that will be powerful enough to power the temp fuser? I do also have a spare pc with an 1660 super on it I could use also.

Thanks.
09/10/2026 14:40 0x41^4#412
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1212 View Post
Im looking at buying the DC505 as I play on an 65 inch 4k oled tv, 120hz. But do you recommend getting the DC500 instead then?

Also apparently I will need a pc with dedicated GPU to run it, 3600 or above.

But in the mean time do you know if a normal fuser would work for a large tv? Such as one that outputs 4k at 60hz.

I’m thinking if I drop the hz to 60hz, as the fuser says it supports 4k at 60hz. Then this would work, but i’ve heard with the tv being so large it can cause problems?

And also I’m using a n150 mini to power my DMA at moment. Do you know if that will be powerful enough to power the temp fuser? I do also have a spare pc with an 1660 super on it I could use also.

Thanks.
Honestly, I'm not sure if it will work on a TV or not. I've never tried it myself, so I can't really speak from experience.

You could try a DC505, but based on everyone I know who has one and ended up going back to their DC60 or DC500, I'd probably stay away from it until they work out the issues. That said, you might have a good experience with it, so it's ultimately up to you whether you want to give it a shot. Either way, you'll need a 3000 series or higher.

Your mini PC should be fine as-is, until you can upgrade, although you may experience some ESP lag.
09/10/2026 14:44 Jay1212#413
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0x41^4 View Post
Honestly, I'm not sure if it will work on a TV or not. I've never tried it myself, so I can't really speak from experience.

You could try a DC505, but based on everyone I know who has one and ended up going back to their DC60 or DC500, I'd probably stay away from it until they work out the issues. That said, you might have a good experience with it, so it's ultimately up to you whether you want to give it a shot. Either way, you'll need a 3000 series or higher.

Your mini PC should be fine as-is, until you can upgrade, although you may experience some ESP lag.
Thanks. I’ll probably go for the DC500 and get a temp on in the mean time. I looked at the DC60 but everyone says it’s full of bugs and not reliable.
09/10/2026 14:56 0x41^4#414
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1212 View Post
Thanks. I’ll probably go for the DC500 and get a temp on in the mean time. I looked at the DC60 but everyone says it’s full of bugs and not reliable.
Yea, that's definitely something I've seen reported as well since its release. That said, I use it myself, as does the majority of my friend group, and none of us have experienced any technical issues whatsoever.

The only issue that almost all of us had was that the fans it comes with are absolute shit, so we had to swap them out for better ones.

I've personally never heard of anyone having issues with the DC500.
09/13/2026 09:09 xinniethepooh#415
do u have an invite link to ithaclan?
09/13/2026 15:19 0x41^4#416
Quote:
Originally Posted by xinniethepooh View Post
do u have an invite link to ithaclan?
You can send me a DM to remind me to send it to you when I get home, but I don’t recommend him anymore.

In fact, I’ve been meaning to remove him from the list but kept forgetting, so I’ll do that now.
09/15/2026 22:31 sykvester#417
Does pubg detect makcu?
09/16/2026 14:12 0x41^4#418
Quote:
Originally Posted by sykvester View Post
Does pubg detect makcu?
No, it doesn’t.
09/19/2026 04:28 vaperwave01#419
What fw would you recommend
i play tarvok right now
But i will want to play rust and abi
I saw you recommended cyberammo in your tier list is it still recommended or no if its not can you send me ones you would recommend
09/19/2026 04:41 0x41^4#420
Quote:
Originally Posted by vaperwave01 View Post
What fw would you recommend
i play tarvok right now
But i will want to play rust and abi
I saw you recommended cyberammo in your tier list is it still recommended or no if its not can you send me ones you would recommend
It really depends on whether you’re planning to get banned or not.

There are only a handful of firmware developers capable of providing long-term, reliable, high-tier EAC firmware, and most of them are private. There’s really only one that publicly sells it.

If you’re expecting to get banned, cycling through alts, raging, etc., then pretty much any publicly sold EAC firmware is good enough to squeeze a few weeks or maybe a month out of an account. You’re generally looking at a one-time payment of around $150–300 for something like Cyber or Flux.

If you’re planning to actually use the account long-term, whether it’s your main or a secondary, and want something that can potentially last for years, you’re looking at around $300/month with someone like Shockazulu.